Towering swells surge across the 12 mile passage between Rincon, Puerto Rico and an uninhabited isle. Our dive boat crests the waves time and again, summiting the indigo hills with ease. We plan to snorkel just off the shores of Desecheo Island, a National Wildlife Refuge that was once home to smugglers and pirates but now shelters a scrap of brown boobies, three species of lizards found nowhere else in the world, and a healthy population of introduced Rhesus monkeys.



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Our group decided on driving the amphibious vehicles after lunch as our next activity. There are several ATV routes, all through the jungle, one through cenotes filled with water. The ATVs hold 2-4 people and are very exciting. We drove through premarked paths through the jungle, over suspension bridges and through dimly lit tunnels, through water and around bends. It's a circuitous path that often goes under the zip lines and then back out into the jungle. After the cave route we did the jungle route which proved to be equally enjoyable. I highly recommend starting with the cenote route and then choosing one of the jungle paths afterwards.

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